Types of Weeds Grow

One very special characteristics of weeds is that they grow vigorously. They have the ability for rapid growth, sending strong root systems far into the ground and reproduce at a very fast pace. They also have very high survival rate. They crowd out the cultivated plants and rob them of essential nutrients, water, sunlight, and space.

For this reason, weed control and elimination are major lawn care tasks for many landscapers. To get rid of these weeds in your garden or lawn, it greatly helps to know and understand how they grow.

What are common types of weeds and how do they grow?

  1. Chickweed

Chickweed plants are famous travelers and they are very persistent. They are active all year-round. Generally, they love make themselves at home in the tropics and in cold climates. However, even during autumn when most weeds are blackened by frost, they are still fresh and green. Their seeds sprout and their star-shaped flowers open even during winter.

  1. Bindweed

This kind of weed is a close relative of the morning glory. Bindweed plants have the ability to twist their stem around and around until they have climbed to the top of a larger plant.

  1. Poison Ivy

This plant is famous clinging vine with roots growing from its stem. These roots allow them to cling to a stone wall or the bark of a tree.

  1. Dodder

This is the most dangerous kind of weed to have. If left to themselves, they will kill your plants and take over your garden.

Since they have no leaves and lack green coloring matter, they are unable to make their own food. In order to survive, they curl around another plant with their orange-yellow stem and get nourishment from the plant they grow on using their special sucker-like roots.

  1. Creeping weeds

Many types of weeds work underground. Some of them survive even during dry spells because they have long, thick taproots that enable them to get water. This includes dandelions, burdock, evening primrose, and broad-leafed plantain.

Gardening Without Pesticides

The real work came in the spring. Planting, watering new plants, only to plant and water more new plants, was a daily routine. I was sore in places I didn’t know had muscles, but the garden was doing very well. It was green, perfect, and all native.

The bees and butterflies came, but so did everything I had failed to anticipate. My new ‘serious’ garden began to be eaten before my eyes. There were all sorts of native leaf chewers: Aphids, slugs, and caterpillars to name a few. Leaves were mined and skeletonized and fell off. Flowers and buds were being sucked into oblivion.

However, the damage that really hurt my feelings was to the roses. When the Japanese beetles arrived, my roses were denuded of both foliage and flower. That was when I first felt the desperate fury that comes when a gardener is faced with crop failure. Up until now, I wanted nature to do the work. This time I felt like I had to do something.

However, the idea of spraying the roses still repelled me. I simply did not want to have roses that you had to keep out of the reach of children for fear they would ingest them. Therefore, I turned away from that idea and began looking for organic ways to help. There was not much I could do. Picking the beetles off the bushes with my hands and putting them in a bucket of soapy water was the best most had to offer. I got to work.

It did not help. I did not get a single rose that year. At the end of the season, I read that Fall and Winter would be a good time to solicit natural help in the form of birds. I put up a wren house, I put out the bird seed, and I put out water all winter long.

The fate of the Japanese beetles – and every other garden pest – was sealed the day I decided not to spray the roses. Predators had already moved in in numbers! But they weren’t at the right life stage to help. Syrphid flies, many wasps, and other insects are only predators as larva. However, because I didn’t spray, they laid eggs all over the garden.

I got an avian resident. A male house wren stuffed sticks in the wren house and sang until he attracted a female. The females are the ones who choose the nest site, and she chose my garden. In a few weeks, when the days were warming and I was fearing another attack by the pests, she laid seven eggs.

I am no expert on bird fertility, but it wouldn’t make much survival sense for her to be so fertile in the presence of little to no food. It was likely that both these wrens were already present in the garden and their bodies knew how many babies they could afford. Because I didn’t spray, I got to see them diving from the house, straight down into the leaves and running around like little feathery wolves and returning with all manner of caterpillars. They did this every day, all day long, the entire season. The wrens had to have devoured thousands, maybe even tens of thousands of insects.

The syrphid fly larva got to work on the aphids that were attacking my new growth. Centipedes got to work on the snails and slugs, as did the firefly larva who are surprisingly voracious and active hunters for worms. The snails and slugs would later attract garter snakes and a mole and a toad. Robins nested and had three chicks on the curve of my downspout. The wasps returned for the flowers and stayed for the hunting. They made off with plenty of insects, bringing them back to larva to eat. Spiders moved in. There were so many green crab spiders that I called the zinnia flowerbed the “Spider Condominiums”. Every zinnia flower and a spider in it.

There were so many predators that my pest problems vanished. I concluded that my ‘Garden Salad’ had turned into the ‘Garden of Death’. Pests who managed to survive long enough to chew and lay eggs would only have their eggs and larva eaten by something else. The lucky few who did manage to breed were inconsequential.

Gardening without pesticides takes time and, in my case, a crop failure, but I put away the mask and the gloves and the sprayer. Using them would have made things harder for myself, and easier on the pests. I learned that gardens need time to get established to thrive. Pesticides delay or prevent the garden from ever moving on from the “Garden Salad” stage to a healthy population of predator and prey. They are an expensive hindrance and can kill or discourage natural resources that help the garden be self-sustaining.

Start a Compost Heap

Make or buy a bin that will suit your garden. Site it in sun or partial shade and have the base of the heap in contact with the soil. You will need at least two bins or two compartments in a bin to process compost properly. Ideally, you should have three. Don’t keep the compost too close to the house. If you think your bin is unsightly, you can screen it with a trellis or a hedge.

You could opt for a wormery instead, but if you have a bin that processes dog faeces, don’t put the end-product on your vegetable patch or where children play.

The debris from your garden and peelings from your kitchen can be turned into black, crumbly, sweet-smelling compost. The larger your garden the more room you will have for a heap and the more compost it can provide for your beds. If you have a small garden, you might find that sealed, plastic bins are a more attractive option.

The composting process will take about six to twelve months. It is a good idea to mix matter as you put it in. Grass cuttings should never be dumped on top of the heap in a great mass because they will go slimy. Mix some dry matter like shredded newspaper in with them. Allow moisture and air to penetrate the heap. Forking the heap will help with this process.

If a heap has too much dry, woody material, it will not rot down quickly, so you could drench it with water if you haven’t enough green stuff to add in. Never lay on a thick layer of material because you will prevent the circulation of air; when adding matter – little and often is best.

Woody sticks will compost more quickly if you shred them. Don’t put in any that are bigger than the width of a pencil. Small twigs will help to keep air circulating inside the heap.

Perennial weed roots like dandelions or bindweed should never be thrown onto a heap unless they have been ground into tiny pieces because even a thread of root left intact will start to grow a new plant. It might be safer to dispose of these by putting them in with the rubbish. Don’t add diseased plants to the heap either.

Don’t overload the compost with citrus fruit peel or shiny magazines. Don’t put in plastic-coated paper. Never put in bones or cooked food. This will attract rats.

You can, however, add seaweed, straw from animal cages, animal fur from brushes, dust from vacuum cleaners and tiny scraps of wool and felt left over from crafting. Tea bags, coffee grounds and egg shells are all good things to add from the kitchen.

Tree leaves collected off the lawn in the autumn take twice as long as other compost to rot down, so in order to be able to add them in with the rest of the compost, you can mow them up off the lawn and put them onto the heap when they are shredded into tiny pieces. The increased surface area will ensure they rot down more quickly. Leaves don’t carry many nutrients but they do help to improve soil texture. You may choose to compost them separately if you have the room in your garden and a huge bulk of leaves to store.

Woody material and straw will be carbon rich and any green material will be nitrogen rich and a good mix of the two makes the best end-product. Compost can be used to feed plants, re-pot plants or as a weed suppressing mulch.

When a bin is filled up, leave the lid on or cover it with an old piece of carpet. When the top of the heap has stopped sinking, turn all the contents to ensure that everything is broken down and then leave it for a couple of months and it will be ready to use. The easiest way to turn the heap over is to shovel the compost from one bin into the one next to it. Have another bin to start filling up while you are waiting for the closed-off heap to mature.

If you are lucky enough to have three bins, start your first heap in the centre one. While it is covered start the next heap in an end bin and when the central heap is ready for turning it can go into the empty bin next to it. By the time the second heap is ready to be closed off the first will be ready for use so that bin can be emptied out and you will have room to continue the process.

Plant in Clay Soil

Planting in clay soil is great for the vegetation that have roots strong enough to break through the hardened ground and compacted clay. Amending an area to make suitable for gardening other types of vegetation is doable. The main idea to remember is to amend an entire area NOT just a single hole for the desired plant to root.

Why is it important to improve the soil structure in an entire area rather a single location? If a gardener focuses on a single location once the plant roots it will grow root length only as far and wide as the hole that was amended. Once the roots reach the soil that is clay the roots will grow inward as they are unable to penetrate through the unforgiving clay soil. The plant may survive, but it will be severely root bound.

Checking soil quality is very important, drainage of the soil is imperative. I also researched a multitude of opinions on the best practices of checking soil quality, and the one common factor each opinion offered is to check more than one or two locations in the ground. Some locations of your yard may require different types or amounts of amendments making it even more important to check the soil’s texture in multiple locations. Dig a hole one foot deep fill it with water wait for it to drain, refill to the top, and time how long it takes to empty.

Proper drainage of the soil helps plant growth. If the water drains to slowly you more than likely have clay, but if it drains to rapidly, It will not be able to retain water or plant nutrients for healthy plant growth. In soil where the water drainage is faster than cup and hour the soils may have too much sand. In cases of clay soil with poor drainage mixing builder’s sand or compost (annually) will improve soil quality.

Adding organic amendments to the soil lightens soil texture, discourages compacting clay, adds nutrients, improves drainage and aeration, and moderates soil temperature, and provides pore space. Amend clay soil with organic matter, decomposed organic matter, (if you can tell what it is it is not decomposed enough) by working the compost into the soil.

Using undecomposed organic matter such as wood chips or mulch are great for on top of the soil, but should not be worked into the clay soil during the growing season. the reason it is not suggested during growing season, the undecomposed matter will continue its decomposition and rob the soil of further nitrogen to aid in its process. Sometimes it is referred to as a work in progress when using material that has not fully reach compost.

Plant A Food Garden

Today people are able to get all the required to start a food garden that will fit on the balcony of an apartment. One can purchase containers that can drain the soil as required, or one could even test the quality of the soil created to very precise measurements.

For less than $50 you can purchase potting soil and containers, with a few dollars spent on seeds you, will be able to feed your family after a few months. You will get a lot more than good health because of the improved efficiency of your metabolism and how your body detoxifies itself. You will also hopefully discover that ‘connection’ which created our bodies millions of year ago.

Our digestion is not built to digest unprocessed organic foods, even 100 years after the invention of junk and processed foods we still see no adaptation to our ability to withstand these toxic onslaughts that go through us every day. When we put our hands in the soil there is a possibility that we can find that ‘connection’ with our creator.

There is a reciprocity that you can feel, even though it may take a few months of eating organic foods, you will feel that there is more than just the growing of a carrot or potato in your food garden. However good or bad it might feel to be see something grow that you were responsible for, you will know deep inside that you are making that ‘connection.’

Whether you believe in the bible or not, the metaphor of the Garden of Eden is something we can scientifically prove. Any contemporary dietitian or nutritionist will tell you to stay away from processed foods and rather eat organic foods that are without toxins.

The Paleo Diet based on the “The Primal Blueprint” written by Mark Sisson has been extensively researched proving that our genetic ability to handle processed food is not getting any better. The highly processed foods we eat every day how now shown to cause diseases Cancer and Diabetes that increase every year at an alarming rate with diabetes now the fastest growing disease on the planet.

The only solution is to do something about it so we can ‘connect’ to the reason why the creator put us here in the first place. Our genetic predisposition when eating correctly gives us increased efficiency when consuming organic foods and health as a result becomes self-evident.

The basic foundation on which our bodies started to evolve over millions of years is built on eating foods that our bodies are originally designed to eat. The same can be applied to treating a new auto-mobile exactly as specified by the manufacturer.

A car will last a lot longer if treated correctly, a healthy auto-mobile will outlive any unhealthy badly treated auto-mobile. If the car is treated correctly as indicated by the manufacturers it will last a lot longer than not caring for it.

If we follow the directions as indicated by our creator based on solid research done on the best foods to eat. With all the state of the art science we have available we still cannot find a better way to feed ourselves than by eating organically grown foods as indicated by our creator. Science has still not found a better way to feed ourselves.

Right Garden Shed

When you have reached the decision about buying a new shed a good point to consider is the base it requires. If you are thinking of replacing your existing shed, then you would have to decide whether or not to keep the original base, or for a small fee and with minimal effort, a new one can be laid for you.

Whatever material you choose to have your shed made from your decision should revolve around what you need the shed for. Is it going to be just for storage or maybe a workshop? Perhaps you want it for both, in which case a larger shed is probably necessary. The size of the shed should also fit well into the space available. Make sure you take precise measurements of various parts of the shed. A good tip is to check the eaves and ridge height of the sheds to make sure you can stand up in it and also that it is a usable space to fit in and move around comfortably.

So what else will you have to consider when choosing your shed:

Are you going to be storing large items, you will need to take careful measurements to ensure that not only all the goods can be stored, but that you can also get the items in and out with ease.

If you are going to store large items then a concrete shed with double doors could be a good option. Concrete sheds are very popular due to their durable build and great safety record, and with the double doors it would make accessing the shed a lot easier.

The panels used in concrete sheds are virtually impenetrable which, coupled with some good quality uPVC windows and doors, means your items will be very safe.

A concrete shed also provides better security from the elements and from thieves than a typical timber shed. This is because it is made from more durable, watertight material that makes it less susceptible to damage from the elements. As it is a lot stronger, a new, well maintained concrete shed would probably be inaccessible to most if not all burglars.

Concrete sheds do not rot unlike wooden sheds, so rodents and other pests will struggle to gain access to a concrete shed compared to a timber structure.

Other aspects to consider are the windows and doors. Some sheds come with windows and some don’t. If you want to keep your items out of sight then it is a good idea not to have any windows, but make sure you have sufficient lighting installed so you can see when you are inside. If, on the other hand you are going to use your garden shed for a home office then windows would be a good idea, perhaps one that opens to improve ventilation.

The shed design is also something to take into account, particularly the shed roof. The most common are Apex, which is a two sided sloping roof with a ridge running along its length and a Pent, which is flat with a slight slope to allow rainwater to run off. Some people prefer the aesthetic appearance of the Apex, whilst others prefer the practicality and generally lower cost of the Pent. Apex designs can also be specified to have translucent roof panels to let in natural light, perfect if you wish to work inside your garden shed.

When thinking about location, you need to consider access, proximity to trees, bushes and garden beds etc. You shouldn’t really put a shed in an area that is susceptible to heavy rainfalls as standing water may rot a water shed. Although a concrete shed isn’t subject to this problem. Try to make sure you have at least two feet of space around all sides of the shed to allow for access for maintenance. A wooden shed would need regular treatment of the wood but a concrete shed requires little or no maintenance, which means you can find more interesting things to do with your days off rather than painting the shed.

Create a Family Vegetable Plot

In fact any part of a garden or greenhouse can be sectioned off to make a garden especially for your children to call their own. Choose crops for them to sow that are quick and easy to grow. Cut-and-come-again lettuces, radishes and carrots are all colourful and can be harvested in quite a short space of time.

A large garden can accommodate fruit trees and fruit cages and a plot of land dedicated to growing vegetables. In a small garden, fruit and certain vegetables can be grown up walls or fences to use all available space. They can even be mixed in with flowers. Some, like marigolds, help to keep pests away from your crops. Fruit trees especially like being trained against brick walls because these retain heat which will help to ripen fruit.

If you only have a courtyard garden or balcony, crops can even be grown in pots, containers and compost bags. If your soil is too poor or your plants will be competing with the roots of large trees, then raised beds can be employed. All of this can be done in an inexpensive way if you recycle containers or other objects such as old tyres or planks of wood.

A lot of fruit trees and vegetable plants have been bred as dwarf varieties to suit the smaller garden. Some crops like herbs, radishes, cress and chillies can be grown on window sills or in conservatories. Strawberries can be grown in ornamental towers.

If you really don’t have enough room to grow everything you would like to grow, then look for an allotment or community garden where you will also find people who will share seeds, plants and knowledge with you. There will probably be other children for yours to play with as well.

Otherwise, when planning your own garden, decide how the light falls on it throughout the day before you decide where to site your green house, cold frames, compost heap, fruit trees and cages and your vegetable plot. If you don’t have room for everything, consider what is most important for you to have.

Grow what you know you like to eat and if you want to experiment with crops, don’t dedicate too much space to them in case they are not a success. You could split a packet of seeds with someone else or swap plants with them.

A greenhouse of any size will extend a growing season but cold frames and cloches can be used for this as well. A compost heap will save you money. Asparagus will need much more room than lettuce to give you a good yield.

You might want to grow things that cost the most to buy in the supermarket or are not even available in your local shops. Or maybe you will choose harvests that can be stored in some way over the winter to reduce wastage or simply crops that will give the highest yield in the space available. Consider what is most valuable for your own family.

If you have never eaten freshly picked vegetables, you will probably not realise how different they taste from the ones bought in the shops. This is especially true of peas, tomatoes and potatoes.

Children can join in with the harvesting of these crops and cooking simple recipes with them. A glut of tomatoes can be turned into sauce for topping home-made pizzas and frozen in batches. A mini mushroom farm can be grown in a dark shed.

Every section of a garden needs to be safe if there are children around. Chemicals must be locked away. Tools should not be left on the ground where they can be stepped on. Support canes pushed into the ground should be capped with film canisters or yoghurt pots stuffed with scrunched up newspaper to ensure they are visible and protected.

Plan your plot carefully to allow each crop room to grow and prepare the ground accordingly. Rhubarb and asparagus will need to establish themselves over a few years so need to be placed in a permanent site. Every other crop should be rotated over a three or four-year cycle. Brassicas follow peas and beans and they follow root crops and potatoes.

Paths need to be wide enough to get a wheel barrow along and you need to get access to all areas that need maintenance. To make paths child-friendly make sure they are level with no ridges to trip over. Buy your small children toy wheelbarrows or pull-along trucks so that they can transport weeds or clippings to the compost heap.

Consider how much time you can spend in your garden and how much attention each crop will need; some are more self-sufficient than others. Think about when you will be away from home on holiday and when your crops will be ready for harvesting.

Choose crops that will do well in your soil and in your climate. If you live in a windswept place, using up some space to grow protective hedges will pay off in the long run. Permeable barriers like trellis and hedges are better than solid walls.

Your crops will need well-drained, fertile soil, good airflow and enough water.

Test your soil with a soil testing kit and distilled water, not water from your tap, before you begin planting. Sandy soil does not retain water or nutrients well. Clay soil holds nutrients but is prone to waterlogging. Soils that are very acid or alkaline will not suit some plants. If you want to grow brassicas such as cabbages or sprouts on acid soil, dress the soil with lime the autumn before.

Sandy soils benefit from added well-rotted manure and clay soils from added grit. Always prepare the soil well before planting. It will pay dividends later. Dig over the plot to loosen the soil adding compost as you go. Avoid walking on the soil wherever possible. Stand on a plank to distribute your weight.

Easy to Grow Garden Roses

There are a few types of garden roses that are bred for landscape use. Knockout roses are one type that has been around for a little while, but they haven’t been around for very long. Bred by Will Radler, in the short time knockouts have been on the market they’ve quickly become standards as a go-to for landscape use.

Residential and commercial landscapes all over the world have used knockout roses for their superb disease resistance, neat habit, and long bloom time. They are larger mature shrubs than other types, but they work well under a variety of conditions. They are good for creating a hedge, as screens, and as barriers. They are also fantastic specimen shrubs. They come in many colors, from white to luscious red, even multi-colored and double blooms.

OSO Easy shrub roses are short spreading roses that come in a variety of colors that are also very easy to grow and disease resistant. Drift Roses are also another type of rose, derived from the Knock Out series. They are a dwarf rose that are perfect for small spaces in the landscape.

Much of the breeding of these very hardy and beautiful landscape roses has a foundation in the hardy and US native Rugosa rose, known as the species of rose called Rosa rugosa. Naturally resistant to the typical diseases that garden roses fall prey to, supremely hardy in most all climates, heavily scented and lovely, Rugosa roses are making their name in landscapes and gardens. They are single petaled, usually bright pink, and heavily scented with a sweet rose scent. They have many uses in gardens and landscapes. They are great hedges. They work on fencerows, and in foundation plantings. They are long-blooming and much enjoyed by native pollinators. The hips can be harvested and made into jellies, jams, and perfuming waters. Care is as easy as it is for the Knockout, OSO, and Drift series of roses.

We offer another shrub with the name of “rose”, but they’re not really roses at all. Rose of Sharon is another hardy, beautiful blooming landscape and garden shrub that’s actually a hibiscus. They come in many colors, from white to blue. They can be bi-colors too. They are usually pruned to suit a shrub-size in form, but rose of Sharon tree specimens are common when they aren’t pruned, as they can grow quite large.

Designing a Great Garden

People who want to become less reliant on grocery stores, they should think about creating a larger vegetable garden. People also usually choose to freeze their vegetables for use later in the year. One more benefit of having your vegetable garden the added knowledge of knowing what is in your garden. By choosing against the use pesticides on your garden people can have an organic garden without the worry of additives. What is more, the taste of organic produce is much sweeter than store-bought produce. Today many people choose to sell their vegetables at a local farmer’s market or vegetable stand.

Today there are a few very important things to consider when starting a vegetable garden, whether to start from plants or from seeds. Both of the options have negative and positive aspects. For example, purchasing plants can be more expensive but requires less patience and time. Planting your vegetable garden from seeds require more patience, time and is less expensive. Do not forget that it is very important to choose a right site for your vegetable garden in your back yard.

Once you have decided on an overall plan for landscaping the back yard, you may find the extra storage is needed. Having a garden cabin in the garden can be a beautiful accessory to add. It can give your garden a personality like nothing else. However, if you are not careful it can be very expensive. What is more, if you want your cabin to be very sturdy, durable, and easy to maintain, then it is best to go for the wood material like spruce, pine or cedar. Of course, cedar is much expensive than other wood materials like spruce or pine but it saves the money in the long run. Cedar is worth those extra dollars as cedar is durable enough to withstand several outside factors that cause wood to fall apart. Of course, cedar wood is a little pricier but this difference in cost shouldn’t hinder you from choosing it as the main building material. The long-term benefits of cedar are unrivaled.

If you need a great place to store all your equipment, gardening tools or to have an ideal place to spend more time with your friends in your garden then having a garden cabin is a great decision. Everybody wants to have a place with a great atmosphere, amazing design, and high-quality furniture. Nowadays, garden cabins are very durable, warm, sturdy, cheap, and modern. You can also build it by yourself from a plan. You may have considered buying a garden cabin if you’re looking for inexpensive vacation home or just need a cabin with the beautiful rustic design.

Info of Growing A Vertical Garden

The whole point of starting this type of garden was that my Shorkie, Brandy, is very destructive and I still wanted something pretty to look at besides the gray fence. So, my first thought was “why not plant something we can use”? Hence the herbs and veggies. That wasn’t enough however, we were still looking at the ugly gray fence, so a few weeks later, we added the flowers and decorations. I still plan to add more to the fence when the temps start going down a bit. Hey, it’s hot in Texas right now!

My inspiration was a beautiful pin I saw on Pinterest and not only were there plants all along the fence, the fence itself was painted like a flower garden! Very inspirational and so much talent needed I’m sure. The first challenge I faced when starting to put plants on the fence was how to hang them without the weight pulling on the fence. First I came up with over-the-door hooks to hang from the support board from the neighbors side. That ended up being where I hung other decorations like a tiny birdhouse and a pretty sun. You see, I would have had to find half baskets and I’m on a budget here.

Ultimately, we ended up getting strong decorative metal hooks that my husband was kind enough to install on the support posts of the fence. They proved quite strong and now I have a plant hanging from each one, three in all. There are other ways to hang more plants at one time, like a long box held by brackets or maybe even half baskets that would hang flush with the fence. Truth is, the weather got hot and I decided to wait to add more because I’ve created enough I have to water already!

We have managed to harvest a few cherry tomatoes and a sweet pepper plus I use the basil for many things. The mint comes in handy as well if you like to make infused waters for instance. Also, it’s wonderful to have pretty flowers, lights and decorations to look at now all out of my puppy’s reach!